The dining rooms were built around a modern dumbwaiter — a working piece of theatre that carries plates between the kitchen and the pass in full view of the room. It is the reason a table here feels closer to the cooking than the square footage would suggest.

One brigade runs all five rooms, and the menu it writes moves across three continents in a sitting: an Ottoman mezze to start, a coconut-and-lemongrass broth for the main, a cardamom tuile to finish. Classic favourites sit beside dishes the chefs are still working out.

Produce leads the menu, not the other way around. Leaves and herbs come from the kitchen garden a few steps from the pass; fish is line-caught, beef is Highland-reared, and what the markets have that morning decides the specials board.

• The dumbwaiter

  A restored lift between kitchen and pass — dinner service you can watch happen.

• Three continents, one menu

  Asian, European and African techniques on the same card, changed with the season.

• Garden to pass

  Herbs and leaves cut metres from the kitchen; the market decides the specials.